Shock-capturing Boussinesq model for irregular wave propagation

In this paper, a shock-capturing numerical model, based on the combined solution of Boussinesq and nonlinear shallow water equations is validated with respect to the transformation, breaking and runup of irregular waves. Boussinesq equations are applied where dispersive and nonlinear effects are both relevant, assuring an appropriate description of wave propagation from intermediate to shallow waters. Nonlinear shallow water equations are used where dispersion is negligible; their shock-capturing features, exploited by the application of the finite volume method, enable an intrinsic representation of wave breaking and swash zone oscillations. No case by case calibration or tracking algorithms are required. Comparisons with experimental data show that the model is able to simulate wave height variations, mean water level setup, wave runup, and the generation of nearshore currents accurately.